The Western Carpathians |
The Western Carpathians are the lowest of the three ranges and
are fragmented by many deep structural depressions. They
have historically functioned as "gates," which
allow easy passage but can be readily defended. The most
famous of these is the Iron Gate on the Danube. The Western
Carpathians are the most densely settled, and it is in the
northernmost area of this range, the Apuseni Mountains, that
permanent settlements can be found at the highest altitudes.
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| Apuseni |
By far the most outstanding of the Western
Mountains are the Apuseni. Their name translates from Romanian
as Mountains "of
the sunset" i.e. "western". Though their peaks
are not higher than 1850 m (maximum elevation 1,849 m, the
Curcubata Mare Peak in the Bihor Mountains), they dominate
the low surrounding
area as a uniform, imposing group. They are unique mountains
within the Carpathians, a combination of wilderness and the
most traditional rural civilization as human settlement extends
to
the highest altitudes. The place of bare rock and abrupt walls
so specific to the other Romanian mountains, is taken by rounded
hills covered in luscious forests and pastures for wild horses.
The mountains display picturesque landscape with houses and
hay piles scattered on the most often karstic plateaus, many
of them
split by wild gorges. The Motii (inhabitants of Western Carpathians)
are very good storytellers. They kept the old traditions and
they have a wonderful folklore. |
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But the wonders of the Apuseni
are not above, but underground: it's caves. There are about
400 of them here. Hidden in deep
valleys are extensive limestone formations that give rise
to some spectacularly eroded scenery. The whole region
is like
a big, white chunk of swiss cheese, thoroughly carved by
underground rivers for millions of years. The forests hide
sinkholes, which
are like magical gates to the kingdom below. The most impressive
is called Cetatile Ponorului, where the powerful river managed
to pierce a passage through a whole mountain, giving birth
to an immense natural bridge. Another unique place is a cave
called Focul Viu (the Live Fire), which owes its name to
a curious lighting effect. The summer sun shines through
a tiny
opening at a precise time of the day, and bounces off the
glacier inside the cavern, illuminating the walls with
a strange glow.
Yet another favorite spot is Scarisoara cave, site of a large
underground glacier. Farther away in the northern range of
the Apuseni, lies the most beautiful of all Romanian caves.
It is called Pestera Ursilor (The Bears' Cave), and was discovered
less than 20 years ago. It owes its name to the remains of
an ancient species of bear that were discovered here.
The Apuseni
Mountains are fast becoming an agrotourism and ecotourism hotspot,
as they offer wonderful scenery, secluded
areas, great Romanian social and rural experiences, as well
as a spirit and mood that is unbeatable. Despite still being
fairly hard to access, especially by public transport, the
Apuseni Mountains make for a great off-the-beaten track destination.
Their gateway town, Huedin, is very easy accessible by train. |
